You shouldn’t do this! Want to Learn More? Join a Surfing Class in San Diego! The important thing to note is that this is a blatant breach of surfing etiquette. This is a term surfers use to describe the situation when a surfer catches a wave in front of another surfer who is already riding. During the barrel ride, a surfer may be completely hidden from view. In surfing, a barrel is a tube inside a breaking wave underneath the lip or crest of a hollow wave. Needless to say, this is not exactly a suitable situation for surfing. CloseoutĪ closeout is formed when all parts of the wave – down the line or crest of the wave – all break at the same time. As a result, the surfer is tossed around and has to do a lot of paddling. We say that a surfer is ‘’caught inside’’ when they get caught on the shore side of a breaking wave, and it’s difficult for them to get out. I know what you might be thinking – isn’t surfing supposed to be about doing stuff above water, and not underneath? You have a point there, but duck diving happens when you dive under the oncoming wave when you are paddling out. Have you ever seen a surfer riding with one knee on the surfboard deck? If you have, they you’ve seen them do a ‘’drop knee’’. This term refers to a very small wave that is not worth riding. In choppy conditions, wind velocity is usually over 12 knots. For example, strong winds and/or currents that result in rough waves and a bumpy ocean. Choppyīy contrast, surfers speak of bad weather conditions as ‘’choppy’’. For example, good weather conditions entail good waves, with a smooth or glassy ocean surface and very little onshore wind. ‘’Clean’’ usually refers to favorable weather conditions and everything they mean for surfing. We wanted to give you a little sneak peek into the rich and dynamic surf slang. You can also join a surfing class in San Diego, where you will get to hang out with professional surfers and other enthusiasts – where better to pick up the slang first-hand? For starters, it’s useful to learn the names for different surfboard parts as well as basic types of surfboards. That energy gets focused as the depth suddenly decreases.Like any other slang, surf slang may sound like gibberish to anyone who doesn’t know the first thing about surfing. SHALLOW REEF: Waves roll out of deep water with all their open-ocean energy intact. With the nearly vertical face of a slab, they kick surfers high into the air.Ĥ. OBSTACLES: Bumps or cuts in the reef can throw boils into the wave face. The wave forms as a backless wallrather than a crestbehind the hole.ģ. THE HOLE: The trough of the wave hits the reef first, sucking water seaward and into a hole or pit. THE TAKEOFF: Slab takeoffs are extremely fast and vertical. Now, slabs consistently produce the most dramatic rides of the year.ġ. That started to change in 2000, when Laird Hamilton rode a monster at Teahupoo that was at least ten feet thick and 40 feet tall. Over the past two decades, while traditional big waves like Maverick’s and Jaws hogged the spotlight, slabs were mainly seen as unsurfable freaks. “Short, hollow slabs are some of the most difficult, intricate, and intimidating waves to surf,” says Greg Long, the California-based big-wave phenom who regularly surfs Teahupoo. For a surfer, riding one of these beasts is like escaping from a collapsing parking garage. The power and danger of a slab come as much from the thickness as the height. It lifts out of nowhere within seconds, sucks the water out of the shallows in front of it, and then slams shut in a violent thump. A slab wave moves fast, through deep water, and hits a shallow reef at full speed. Traditional surfing waves roll toward shore, slow down as they rise up, and break cleanly to one or both sides. They can be found in the Pacific Northwest, in Scotland, and, most notably, at Shipstern’s Bluff, in the Southern Ocean off Tasmania: a boiling 50-footer. Though Teahupoo might be the best-known slab, surfers are now hunting them down around the world. IF YOU’VE SEEN PHOTOS or YouTube clips of Tahiti’s Teahupoo surf break, you’ve seen a slab wave.
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